Seasonal cuisine is the rule at Akagi, and in winter that means golden crab. It wouldn’t be a proper winter without a meal of golden crab at Akagi.

The golden crab is a cross between the snow crab and the Japanese red crab. The price of the golden crab is usually about half the price of the snow crab, but recently the price has jumped higher. Apparently, a well-known restaurant in Kanazawa started letting on that this crab is rare, a phantom crab, one in 2000. I suppose it’s a good thing to try to add value to a product put up for sale, but it’s an embarrassing nuisance for a restaurant like Akagi that thrives on delivering high quality for a low price.

Maybe that’s why it feels twice as good to have golden crab at Akagi this year. Indeed, it really wouldn’t be a proper winter without it. The master himself poured hot sake for me to drink out of the empty crab shell. What a feeling!