Bistro Ryomon stands inconspicuously on a narrow street in the Higashiyama Chaya district. I had heard that the Bistro was serving squab this summer, so I went over to see. Squab are difficult to breed and are considered a specialty dish even in their native France. Chef Ryomon slowly grills the meat, drawing out the wild flavor. As always, the chef spares no effort to get things just right. Maybe it’s the draft beer, maybe it’s the conscientious serving staff, but everything tastes mysteriously delicious tonight.