The Changing Seasons at Akagi
In the spring, Akagi serves wild plants and vegetables; in the summer, fresh water fish – “yamame” (brook trout) and “iwana” (char); in the autumn, wild mushrooms — all harvested in the nearby mountains. That’s the usual way for this restaurant. It’s been substantially self-sufficient for years.

The Hokuriku winter is long. When spring finally comes, no one has to remind us it’s time for the wild plants and vegetables. Hokuriku winter doesn’t really end till they arrive. It’s a good time for a get-together at Akagi. We crunch on the roasted bones of the char fish soaked in sake, flavored with a pinch of “matcha” powder and salt. It resembles a ceremony, but here in the north country, we’re truly thankful for spring.